Big Canoe Creek

Kayaking in nature’s splendor

Story by Linda Long

Submitted photos

Get out the paddles, the oars and canoes. Don’t forget fishing poles, tackle boxes and bait. Throw in those binoculars for some serious birdwatching. Some have even spotted an eagle or two. Oh, and don’t forget the sunscreen.

Folks in and around St. Clair County are heralding the arrival of spring and all it has to offer. Tops on just about everybody’s favorites “to do” list is Big Canoe Creek. The treasured waterway runs through Ashville and Springville, providing adventures not only for kayaks and canoes, but also for fishing enthusiasts, birdwatchers and anybody who’s seeking to unplug and unwind.

For Meg Hays, who along with husband Perry own Big Canoe Creek Outfitters in Springville, getting out on the creek is almost a spiritual experience.

“We offer a trip down the creek where people get to experience nature in a different way … a way that a lot a lot of people never get to see,” Hays says. “It’s peaceful here. It’s quiet. We see all kinds of wildlife, a very diverse group of fish and birds, egrets, owls, hawks. I mean all kinds of birds. 

We even have a couple of bald eagles that live around here.”

She believes the creek’s solitude is a big draw for many visitors. “You don’t pass any civilization. You’re just out there in the woods.

Paddling the creek provides a great family time to enjoy nature together. “I think that’s why a lot of people have come to see us.”

Randall Vann, owner of Yak tha Creek in Ashville, couldn’t agree more. “We’re all outdoors people here at my house. We’ve always enjoyed being outdoors, whether it’s on the water or in the woods. We’re passionate about it. We spend a lot of our downtime enjoying the nature that God has given us.”

Vann gives his business address as “off the side of the road, on Highway 231, at the bridge coming into Ashville.” Folks seem to have no trouble following those directions. On a weekend day from April through Labor Day, cars are lined up at the bridge, their passengers ready for an adventure on the creek.

“It’s about a three to three-and-a-half-hour trip,” said Vann, “although there is no time limit. We’ve got people who come just to fish. They’ll stay from eight in the morning till dark.”

But for the most part, Vann says, they come to “pretty much, just enjoy the creek, the scenery and the weather. They get in their boats and may have to paddle a little bit to stay straight, but typically, they just get out there with a Bluetooth speaker listening to music with a group of friends. They just hang out. They’ll find a place by the side of the creek to go swimming. It’s just a place to relax. Sometimes we get a mom and dad and a couple of kids, and the kids like to race their parents to see who gets back first.”

Yak tha Creek opened in 2016. Since that time, according to Vann, “we’ve grown and grown and grown. We started out with 12 little store-bought boats and one pickup truck. Now, we can handle about 60 people at a time,” he said. “We have a passenger van to haul people, and we run three pickup trucks all weekend long.”

He says visitors come from all across Alabama.

Vann’s success seems to reflect a national trend in kayaking. According to a recent report in

Time, kayaking has risen to one of the fastest growing sports in the nation. It has grown to more than 8 million active participants, marking a substantial increase from 3.5 million just 10 years ago.

Hays isn’t surprised by the boat’s growing popularity. “Anybody can kayak,” she said. “One of the beauties of this section of the creek that we’re on is that it is very beginner friendly. We’ve had so many newbies come through. They had never been in a kayak before, and they loved it. They learned the boat and how to paddle and were able to make it to the end. They said they couldn’t wait to come back.”

There is also, no age limit on who can paddle the creek. “I’ve sent them down as young as six and as old as 78,” she recalled. “We also had a 2-year-old ride the creek in a tandem boat, where the parent paddles in the back.”

The Outfitters have recently opened four primitive campsites, complete with picnic tables, fire rings and tent areas. The business is open year-round, seven days a week. Reservations are $35 for a single kayak; $50 for a double. The shuttle fee with your own boat is $10.

Yak tha Creek is open weekends, April through Labor Day, and weekdays with prior arrangements. Cost is $30 per kayak and $5 for your own boat.

Discounts are offered to the military, nurses, teachers, fire and police.

Group discounts are available with five or more renting.

Doug Morrison, president of the conservation group, Friends of Canoe Creek, has said, “paddling the creek is giving people a chance to explore, to stop and see, if they will pay attention. They’ll see that when you paddle up a creek, you tend to observe nature more than just walking outside in your backyard. When you paddle up a creek, you will see all kinds of creatures. In today’s society there’s just not enough outdoor recreation. People are too plugged into their electronic devices.”

Wester Farms

Odenville home to four-legged world champions

Story by Elaine Hobson Miller
Photos by Mike Callahan
Contributed Photos

As horse farms go, Wester Farms in Odenville doesn’t look out of the ordinary.

A 21-stall barn houses the horses and their tack. Several horse trailers are parked nearby. Huge round hay bales and several square bales are stacked in a slightly smaller barn next door, along with bales of pine shavings to line the stall floors.

The usual farm equipment is scattered about, such as tractors, horse trailers, a backhoe, a telehandler with 40-foot telescoping lift, a skid steer with a fork and a walk-behind loader that is used to clean stalls.

It’s not a glamorous place, but it is home to two very glamorous horses who have set records in the racking horse industry. When High Sword won the World Grand Champion title in October, Cadillac by Jazz won the Reserve World Champion title at the same show in Decatur. Roy Wester owns both horses, marking the first time in the history of the racking horse industry that horses owned by the same person took the two top spots at the championship show.

High Sword, ridden by trainer Jamie Lawrence of Vinemont, was World Grand Champion in 2014 and 2015, too, making him the only horse in racking horse history to win that title three times. Roy rode Cadillac by Jazz in the championship competition.

Both horses competed in qualifying classes to get to the championship level. “These two horses won separate qualifying classes prior to competing for the World Grand Championship that crowned the world’s best racking horse at the 48th annual Racking Horse World Celebration in Decatur,” he says.

Racking horses are derived from the Tennessee Walking Horse, and most are registered as both walking and racking. About 80,000 racking horses are in the industry’s national registry, Racking Horse Breeders’ Association of America (RHBAA), which began in 1971 and is located in Decatur.

During show season, which is April through November, Wester works with the horses four or five days a week. He participates in about 20 shows per season. During the rest of the year, colts and unfinished horses are made ready for the next season. He raises about 20 of his own colts and buys 10-20 more starts that he trains and re-sells.

“It’s a lot of tough work for trainers and all involved, a lot of late nights, and you don’t get many days off,” he says of the racking horse business. “But I just love it.”

At 70 years old, Wester still mounts a horse from the ground, as opposed to using a mounting block, because he has been doing it all his life. He confesses, however, that he lowers the stirrups to mount, then raises them to their proper length.

His two sons show along with him, and his wife, Joan, goes to shows and cheers them on, helps with advertising and is the wardrobe mistress. “She dresses me,” Wester says. But she does not ride any more. Wester has a couple of employees that help train and show, and some of the horses are trained by Jamie Lawrence.

As many as 24-30 horses occupy the farm at foaling time, which occurs in the fall and in the spring. Only 30 percent of his foals are born in the fall, because it’s too expensive to winter them. Wester’s horses go through 200 round bales and 2,500 square bales per year, along with 80 pounds of pellets and corn per week, as it is.

“That does not include 100 round bales for the cows and 22 horses we keep in Cherokee County,” says Wester, who owns his and his wife’s family farms there.

Retired from Arlington Construction Co. in Birmingham, for which he built 50,000 apartment units, until last year, Wester showed as an amateur because he does not train horses he does not own. “An amateur can show in any class, but a professional, who trains horses for other people, can only show in the open classes,” he explains. “I get a lot of people every month who call wanting me to train their show horses, but I don’t do that.”

He has won amateur Grand Champion on Cadillac by Jazz three times and the men’s amateur four times. “Jazz has won more blues (first-place ribbons) in his career than any horse I have ever shown,” Wester says. “He was also a world champion Tennessee Walking Horse in Shelbyville prior to starting his career as a racking horse in 2014. He has been showing since he was four, and he will be 14 next spring.”

Another one of Wester’s horses, 16-year-old Tears, was the 2016 World Grand Champion racking horse. “I rode him myself, and I won three amateur world championships on him and three amateur world grand championships,” he says. “I have shown Cadillac myself since 2015 and now train him here. Both Tears and Cadillac have been winning all their lives.”

Wester got the horse bug from his father, who raised Tennessee Walkers with S.W. Beech Stables in Tennessee. “We didn’t show, we just got them ready, and they (the stables) sold them for show work,” he says. “I deal mainly with racking horses on pads with no action device, which is a requirement for the RHBAA World Grand Championship.”

Some of his stallions, including the two latest champions, go to Campbell Stables in Cullman during breeding seasons (fall and spring). “They do our shipping and breeding,” Wester says.  “We don’t live-cover any mares at the breeding barn. It’s all through artificial insemination, except for the stallions who stay at my barn (Spinzone, Tears and Gen’s Rocky Road).”

Another winner is now enjoying life as a pet for his granddaughter and a companion for mares and their foals. The 15-year-old sorrel gelding is José On Call, and Roy won the 2012 men’s show pleasure championship on him. That horse’s show career ended when Wester’s 9-year-old granddaughter claimed José as her own. She’s 16 now, and José is still her horse.

“She just pets him and rides him, she doesn’t show him,” Wester says. “I made a lot of money on that deal, didn’t I?”

Namaste

Goat Yoga more than just a craze for Springville couple and their farm

Story by Carol Pappas

Photos by Kelsey Bain

Make the turn off Springville’s Shanghai Road into CareDan Farm and it’s as if you have entered a magical world where animals rule, and the rest of us are lucky enough to be part if it – if only for a day.

The gang’s all there: Nigerian Dwarf goats Charlotte, Rose, Rosebud, twins Spur and Kid Rock and two new babies, Peanut and Cashew. There’s Rooster and Daisy, the horses, of course, and a lovable pig named Pancake. Talk about free range, the chickens meander around these parts to their hearts’ content while ducks splash playfully in a nearby puddle.

It’s just another day at the farm for them, but for those arriving by the carload, it’s an experience they won’t soon forget.

And that’s precisely the point, say Danny and Caren Davidson, who open up their Springville farm to young and old, friends, family and strangers from near and far, curious about a thing called goat yoga.

“It’s fun when people come out and do things they don’t typically do,” says Caren, who calls their fledgling business, My Farm Day, the perfect moniker, adds Danny. “Whether it’s fishing, riding horses, playing with the goats, we wanted people to have a ‘my farm day’ for them.”

Their first venture in providing that personalized farm experience is a craze sweeping the country, goat yoga. And on a summer Saturday morning, the rain didn’t seem to dampen the spirit of the day. Quite the opposite. Guests headed to the barn for shelter, where yoga mats and a menagerie of four-legged hosts awaited.

Certified yoga instructor Nancy Hunter of Springville explains her foray into today’s goat variety of this ancient practice. Caren had seen a post on Facebook about Nancy’s Yoga classes in Springville and at her studio in Oneonta.

Caren called and asked if she would be interested in teaching Yoga with goats, and Nancy said ‘Yes, I’m game. I’ll try it.’

“Caren is so amazing,” Nancy says. “These are her children,” she adds, motioning to the goats – old and new – the horses nearby, the baby chicks just introduced into the class (much to the delight of its students) and a host of other animals making up the zoo-like atmosphere.

In the beginning …

 It wasn’t always like this – a farm couple just working and sharing the land. They were from the big city.

But her grandparents had a farm in Tennessee when she was growing up. “I fell in love with the farm and the animals.” Charlotte, one of the goats, is named for her grandmother.

Danny and Caren grew up in Vestavia Hills and graduated from Vestavia High, dated at Ole Miss and married.

He served in the Army in San Antonio for a few years, and they moved back to Alabama when he finished service.

They bought property across from Matthews Manor and lived there for nine years in Argo. “I love to be outdoors,” Caren says. “He loves to build stuff. We moved in with some dogs and within a year, we added horses and a couple of more dogs. Our dream was more land and more animals.”

They found what they were looking for – the house with 69 acres bordering Little Canoe Creek – in Springville. “When we pulled in the driveway, four chicks came running out to meet us,” Caren recalls. “I thought, ‘I’m sold. This is awesome.’”

“We bought a tractor and few other things, and that’s how we got here.”

By day, Danny is about to begin a new job teaching Algebra at Moody High School. Caren is director of human resources at a Birmingham law firm.

“Because we grew up in the city, we didn’t know much about farm life. Fortunately, we’ve had some great neighbors and friends who have taught us a lot about barn and fence building, drainage, pond maintenance, etc.,” Caren explains. 

“What we didn’t learn from them, we learned from books or YouTube. Our master shower is frequently turned into an infirmary for injured chickens and ducks. We continue to learn most everything the hard way, but because it’s just the two of us, we have a lot of fun living the ‘farm life,’ which is a big departure from our ‘regular life.’” 

The Davidsons don’t have children, but they have a very close family with lots of cousins, nieces, nephews who enjoy ‘Farm Days’ at Uncle Danny and Aunt Caren’s farm, hence the name, CareDan Farm. “Farm Days,” she says, “consist of riding horses, playing in the creek, fishing, gathering eggs from the coop, riding 4-wheelers, Gator rides, canoeing, hitting floating golf balls into the pond and whatever other activities Danny dreams up. Evenings on the farm generally involve more fishing, campfires, watching football and listening to music on the back porch.”

On the farm, Danny’s job at first was that of goat wrangler. He is self-proclaimed “head goat wrangler,” and has a name tag to prove it.

He’s the one always bringing home the goats. She’s more practical. The night before this class, he brought home two more without telling her. But she couldn’t resist, it was easy to see, as she held them like babies, bottle fed them and sported a never-ending smile as they frolicked among the yoga guests in the barn.

The driving force

The genesis of this day, where smiles, laughter and squeals of excitement are quickly becoming tradition, came from an unlikely source – a tragedy involving Caren’s father, Dr. Cary Petry. He had suffered from depression and anxiety for years and sadly took his own life in 2017.

“The couple of years leading up to that event were quite stressful, as I tried to provide my dad with encouragement, support and different treatment options. After his death, I found myself just going through the motions most weeks. I’d spend all my energy during the week trying to do my job, and I’d use the weekends on our farm for quiet time in hopes of recharging for the next week. Being outdoors, surrounded by all of God’s amazing creations, was the medicine I needed, but it was still just a repetitious cycle week after week.”  

On a Sunday morning a year ago, her mother called as Danny and Caren were walking out the door to church. “She told me to turn on the news because there was a story coming on about a lady in Oregon who held goat yoga classes on her farm. I watched the story and couldn’t stop thinking about the satisfaction she had gained by sharing her farm and love for goats with others. I wondered if I could regain some happiness, and perhaps help others, by sharing my farm and animals with others.”  

When she took the next step and called Nancy, “Surprisingly, Nancy had actually participated in a goat yoga class and was eager to try teaching one. So, for my 46th birthday, I invited a few close friends and family to attend a goat yoga birthday party at the farm. I figured they wouldn’t turn me down since it was my birthday. I had never done yoga before, but I was excited to combine so many things I love into one activity – friends, family, animals, outdoors and some much-needed exercise.

“The goats kept escaping the temporary fence we had hastily put up and didn’t seem too interested in the yoga, but it was fun nonetheless.”

They experimented with two more classes that fall before deciding to get serious about it. “Well, as serious as you can get about goat yoga,” Caren adds. “I felt like goat yoga was the perfect way for me to share our farm with other people who may be in need of some laughter and a break from their stressful lives.”  

Where there’s a will …

“In January 2019, our two goat mommas, Charlotte and Rose, had three kids: Spur, Kid Rock and Rosebud. And in March, My Farm Day hosted its first official goat yoga class with our five goats.  Since then, we’ve had classes nearly every Saturday morning.”  Classes are limited to 12 people because the goat to human ratio is critical to participant’s enjoyment of the activity.  

With the emotions of her father’s passing still fresh, “I got excited about it. It was something we could focus on and find a way to let other people enjoy the farm. It’s a different concept. It’s silly. It lets you forget about all your troubles for a while. Life is tough. If you can take a few minutes to do something you don’t always do, that’s fun.”

She talks of mental health issues as an epidemic facing the country and sees the farm as a means of coping. “It’s hard to get the help you need. I want to help people laugh. That makes me happy.”

The years leading up to her father’s death “were really rough for us. Every weekend, I would be here and recharge. It made me feel better to be with the animals.”

Her father was an animal lover and when he was at the farm with his dog, Rowdy, his rare smile would appear and is a memory she savors. It is also a memory that sparked the adventure Caren and Danny are now on. And Rowdy now acts as greeter, escorting guests up and down the drive.

What’s in a name

They decided to name the business “My Farm Day” with the idea that “everyone needed ‘their’ day on the farm, just like when we had family out for impromptu farm days. We figured we’d start My Farm Day with a little goat yoga, and maybe later, expand it to include other activities like fly-fishing lessons, barnyard parties, etc.,” she explains. 

Goat yoga is the first real leg of that journey. And so far, the reviews have visitors coming back for more.

As the class gets under way on this particular Saturday, Caren and Danny place the newest baby goats on the backs of the participants who could hardly stifle non-stop giggles with the little ones prancing around, eventually leaping off as if the back were a high dive.

The newest goat crew will make their debut in yoga class in a few months. They are partial to crawling atop a human back or two or across their stomach as they lie motionless except for the full body stretch they are attempting.

“The older goats now are like teenagers. They have a mind of their own,” Danny said as the older goats wandered around the yoga class, going underneath, over and around outstretched bodies, occasionally pausing for a snack of hedges and vines nearby. Most did manage a snuggle or two with their human guests, enticing more than a few pets, hugs and rubs behind the ear from them.

One family arrived as part of a surprise for Jimmy Waldrop for Father’s Day. “He loves goats, but we live in the city limits (of Hueytown), and we can’t have them,” said Waldrop’s wife, Dana. He had mentioned he wanted to start yoga, and when she saw My Farm Day’s goat yoga, “it was perfect.”

Waldrop, a nurse at UAB, enjoyed his Father’s Day surprise outing. “I like getting out in a farm atmosphere, and I like goats. I don’t know why, I just do.”

Lana Clayton of Ashville is a return guest. “I fell in love with it, and I came back again and again.”

Farm living is the life for them

“Danny and I have had so much fun and met so many wonderful people during goat yoga classes.  We love it because it allows us to spend time outdoors together, with our animals, while sharing our love of nature with others,” Caren concludes. 

“People who don’t typically interact with farm animals, get a small dose of farm life, while getting in some terrific stretching and exercise. Nancy loves teaching the class because it introduces yoga to people who may not otherwise try a yoga class in a traditional setting.”  

Participants are encouraged to laugh and take pictures throughout class. “As we say, ‘It’s a little bit of yoga and a whole lot of goat.’” 

After class Caren and Danny help people pose for pictures with the goats. “Sometimes we have chickens join the class, and our pig, Pancake, has been known to shove her way in to the ‘yoga studio’ for a little attention. Every class is different, so it’s fun ‘work’ for us.”

Underneath a sign that appropriately says, Attitude is everything. Pick a good one, a table of wares displays Caren-designed goat yoga t-shirts and hats. Even the fresh eggs they sell have their own stamp on it – Laid With Love – a creation by Danny.

 “But it’s not about making money,” Caren says, “it’s about giving people an experience that’s a break from ‘normal’ life.” As one participant told her, “I found today that baby goats are the cure for nearly anything.”

So, what’s next for this farm-loving, farm-sharing couple? “It is our goal to later, when we retire, use our farm in ways to help people who are hurting,” Caren said. “Goat yoga is just our first baby step.”  

Editor’s note: More information about the farm and goat yoga is at myfarmday.com.

St. Clair Outdoors

From hunting to climbing to cycling:
Not one single reason to stay inside

Story by Loyd McIntosh
Submitted Photos
Discover Archive Photos

“In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.”
— Margaret Atwood

The promise of another spring is just around the corner. Time to shake off the fog of winter, as well as the handful of pounds many gained waiting for the wet, cold and gray misery of winter to finally come to an end. Spring is a time to put the remote control down, shut off the cell phone, get outdoors, learn a new skill, and, most importantly, have some fun!

St. Clair County is blessed with an abundance of natural resources, and there are a ton of local experts ready to help you take advantage of the many outdoor activities available just outside the front door. Regardless of your physical fitness level or knowledge of a new interest, the only limit is your imagination and willingness to try to something new. The following is just a sample of some of the activities you can do throughout the county.

Kayaking Big
Canoe Creek

More and more people are learning about the great kayaking and canoeing along Big Canoe Creek, a 50-plus-mile-long waterway snaking through St. Clair County and part of the Big Canoe Creek Watershed. 

One of the most ecologically diverse in the state, Big Canoe Creek is home to more than 50 species of fish and one of the healthiest populations of mussels in the country. The creek is also stunningly beautiful, and one of the best ways to experience it is in a kayak.

“Our creek has lots of wildlife on it,” says Randall Van, owner and operator of Yak Tha Creek, a small business providing kayaking experiences based in Ashville. Among the species of fish are alligator gar, crappie, brim and red eye bass.

Van says many of his customers are anglers who want to fish the creek from kayaks. “I have a lot of fishers that come to me and want to fish the day out there, fishing on the edges, and find them a little hole where there’s a deep spot to fish because our water goes from ankle-deep to 12 to 15 feet deep.”

Even if fishing isn’t your thing, kayaking Big Canoe Creek is a spectacular way to appreciate the natural wonder of St. Clair County.

The section of the creek Van runs his business on and uses for personal kayaking is very secluded, keeping the modern distractions from the natural habitats to a minimum. Even an expert like Van is surprised from time to time at what he encounters when on the water. “I’ve been down it many times with my wife and all of a sudden a deer will cross the creek in front of you,” he says. “We had a bald eagle visit the creek several times last year to go fishing itself. Lots of neat stuff like that can be happened upon while you’re out there.

“This is part of the thrill and why I enjoy it so much,” he adds. “You just never know what you’re going to kayak up to.”

Bird Watching

If you’re interested in something a little less strenuous or just want a more relaxed experience in the outdoors, bird watching might be just the thing for you. Thanks to the county’s diverse natural resources and location along the flight path for many interesting species, St. Clair County offers ample opportunities to see an array of birds on their way to and from locations as far-flung as the Arctic Circle to South America.

 “During the spring you’ll definitely get a lot of spring migrants,” says Joe Watts, president of Birmingham Audubon and the author of Alabama Birding Trails (alabamabirdingtrails.com). “There are several hundred birds that migrate through Alabama each spring and fall, and some actually stop in Alabama and spend the summer here.”

According to Watts, many birds that make their way to our neck of the woods launch from the Dauphin Island-Gulf Shores area when the wind is ideal, allowing them to make the trip several hundred miles north.

“Sometimes they’ll fly all the way to St. Clair and Jefferson counties to the first line of the Appalachian Mountains, and then they’ll settle,” explains Watts. “They’re going as far as they can until they’re worn completely out.” Among the birds you’re likely to see during the spring include the rose-breasted grosbeak, indigo buntings and hawks, which are plentiful during the spring and fall along the ridges of Horse Pens 40.

On Logan Martin Dam, wading birds are common sights, such as the black-crowned night heron and other similar species that feed on the fish along the rocky shoreline of the lake. The majestic bald eagle, with its wingspan of up to 7.5 feet, can also be viewed throughout the area.

Other areas around the county that are great for bird watching include Ten Islands Historic Park, where visitors can see blue-winged warblers, along with prairie warblers and white-eyed vireos beginning in March, and Neely Henry Dam, where a variety of gulls, such as Ring-billed, Bonaparte’s and Herrings, as well as cliff and barn swallows, are visible throughout the spring. To get started, all you need is a willingness to get outdoors and patience. A nice pair of binoculars is the perfect complement.

Bouldering at Horse Pens 40

One of the most physically challenging activities around the county has to be bouldering at Horse Pens 40. However, if you’re up to the challenge, your hard work will be rewarded. Increasingly, the nature park situated on Chandler Mountain is gaining a reputation for some of the best bouldering in the nation – if not the world.

Made up of rare combinations of sandstone with bands of iron throughout, the rock formations at Horse Pens 40 are tightly condensed and due to the uniqueness of the formation, provide a more challenging climbing experience. “A lot of places that people go to boulder you have to walk a quarter of a mile to get to the next climb, but here it’s all laid out back-to-back like it would be in a gym,” says Ashley Ensign, assistant manager at Horse Pens 40.

The rock formations at Horse Pens 40 pushed up from underground with evidence to suggest the formations were under water for millions of years. This process led to the tops of the rocks being rounder and smoother than most rocks, forming what is known as “slopers” in the bouldering world.

Slopers are more of a challenge to climb than flat top rocks, making Horse Pens 40 an attractive location for bouldering enthusiasts around the world. “We’re known as the sloper top out capital of the world,” says Ensign. “It’s like you’re trying to grip a ball to pull up on the top. It is a lot more challenging because you have to squeeze. That’s what I hear people say every day. You have to grip the sides and hug it.”

On a typical weekend, up to 200 people can be found bouldering on the 40 acres of rock formations at Horse Pens 40, many of them coming from locations thousands of miles away. They have heard about the great climbing and the park and made the trek to Steele, Alabama, to check it out. “Recently we’ve had people from Colorado, Canada and even from Japan. It’s just that well-known within the climbing world.”

For more on St. Clair Outdoors, check out the full special section in this month’s Discover St. Clair. 

Journey’s End

Big Canoe Creek Preserve
in Springville is now
a part of Forever Wild

Story by Carol Pappas
Photos by Susan Wall
and Emily Y. Horton

He was no doubt inspired by the groundwork they meticulously laid in making a compelling case for saving this property for the future, others entered the picture to eventually move this project over what had been an elusive finish line.

Prominent Springville businessman Dean Goforth, helped them navigate the political process. So did Candice Hill and Don Smith of the St. Clair Economic Development Council. Vickey Wheeler, a local artist and head of Nature Planning for Friends was among those helping push it to fruition.

Wendy Jackson, former executive director of Alabama Freshwater Land Trust and now executive VP of the Land Trust Alliance in Washington, D.C., was instrumental as was Barnett Lawley, former commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources and now a board member of the St. Clair EDC.

“The Big Canoe Creek Preserve is perseverance at its finest,” Jackson said. “So many people committed to making the preserve a reality and never quit. Doug Morrison and all of the Friends of Big Canoe Creek, the City of Springville, St. Clair County Commission and Freshwater Land Trust were early champions and stayed the course, even when success seemed far from certain.

“Kudos to their forward thinking and leadership that created a remarkable legacy for my beloved home county. I grew up playing in Canoe Creek and look forward to visiting this new beautiful, preserve that brought so many people together. For me, it will always stand as a symbol to great character of the people in St. Clair County and why, no matter where my travels take me, I am so proud to call it home!”It is easy to use words like perseverance when describing the project’s history. At one point in the process, “They were at a place where they felt like it was dead,” said Goforth. “It wasn’t going anywhere.” He worked with State Rep. Jim Hill and State Sen. Jim McClendon as well as State Lands Manager Doug Deaton of ADCNR.

Referring to Morrison and the Friends of Big Canoe Creek, Goforth said they had done “an awesome job of nominating the property and helping people understand its importance.” Because of the relationships he and others had, they were able to combine forces and work together to take the effort to a whole new level.

“It was a team effort,” Morrison said. The city of Springville, St. Clair County Commission and various state officials and agencies invested all the support that was needed, and the preserve became official. “It will benefit people from now on,” Goforth added.

They predicted it will become one of the premier destinations in the state. It’s centrally located. It’s easy to access. And it has it has a number of diverse development possibilities over time, including horseback riding, canoeing, kayaking, bird watching, hiking, walking trails and possibly, mountain bike trails.

Look in any direction, and you cannot help but see an outdoor classroom surrounding you. The education component is limitless. Goforth called it a “huge opportunity from an education standpoint” with schools and colleges as natural partners along with other organizations who will use it as a teaching and research tool.

“The impact of this project will be felt across St. Clair County, both from a tourism perspective and a preservation presence,” said Retail Development Specialist Candice Hill of St. Clair EDC.

“Because Springville is already set up to receive tourism dollars in its retail districts, they will feel the spinoff immediately. The participation of both St. Clair County and the City of Springville in this projects says to all of us that they care about the quality of life and the preservation of green space, and we look forward to the future of this preserve,” she said. “Over 100,000 people visited the Forever Wild prerserve at Turkey Creek last year, and if we see similar results, this could really help local businesses.”

 

Preparing for the future

On an August morning of overcast skies, dozens of volunteers, environmentalists and conservationists combed the tracts of land that run along Big Canoe Creek looking for even more reasons – species – this watershed should be preserved.

Two graduate students from the University of Alabama, Frank Gigliotti and Thomas Franzem showed up for the Bio-Blitz “just for fun. They were there looking for species of birds and insects. They are working with the State now for a return visit for a more thorough exploration.

Kim Waites of Wild South, a leader in public lands protection in the Southeast, volunteered to map the distance of the entire border of the property and look for places to develop trails.

Henry Hughes, retired director of Education at Botanical Gardens, a forester by trade, was looking forward to his first Bio-Blitz as well. His task would be identifying the trees found on the expansive parcel.

Educator Lacy Kamber talked of the programs Turkey Creek, where she works, has put in place. Named a Forever Wild property in 2008, its 466-acre park in Pinson is a growing attraction. It has six miles of hiking and biking trails and a creek that is “incredibly clean” with a waterfall that visitors can tube down, a natural waterslide. With more protected species than any other preserve, Turkey Creek has earned a reputation for its richness in education, recreation and environmental resources.

It is known for three species of darters, one of which – vermillion – is on the critically endangered species list. It only exists in 10 square miles of Turkey Creek.

 

About Big Canoe Creek

Big Canoe Creek has plenty of its own precious resources. The main part of the creek is more than 50 miles long with four tributaries flowing into it – Gulf Creek, Muckleroy Creek and two “Little Canoe” creeks.

Along its shores, the preserve is home to a mix of oak-hickory and oak-pine forests. Thickets of mountain laurel and native azaleas populate its slopes.

Bordering the creek are Beech, Red and Sugar Maples, Hornbeams, Catalpa, Butternut and Big Leaf Magnolia trees. In limited supply, but nevertheless dwelling n the land, are fire suppressed stands of river cane.

The creek itself is home more than 50 species of fish, including a rarity, the Trispot Darter, discovered in 2008 in Little Canoe Creek – a species that used to occur in Alabama but had not been observed in nearly 50 years. It is a species of conservation concern in Alabama, Tennessee and Georgia and is under review by the US Fish and Wildlife Service for listing under the Endangered Species Act.

Because it had not been collected in Alabama since the mid-20th Century, it was considered locally extirpated. With the discovery of the Trispot Darter, it is now designated, “Highest Conservation Concern” by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources.

Mussels – nature’s water filter – are in great supply in Big Canoe Creek, illustrating and ensuring the creek as an ecological treasure. The creek has retained a majority of its mussel species. They are the most endangered because of their dependency on exceptionally high water quality.

Big Canoe Creek watershed has eight federally listed freshwater mussel species associated with it. And an 18-mile stretch of its main stem was designated in 2004 as a “critical habitat” under the Endangered Species Act. A distinct new species, The Canoe Creek Clubshell, only found in Big Canoe Creek, has been discovered in one of its tributaries.

Conservation status is designated for 10 species of mussels in Big Canoe Creek. Two species have state conservation status while eight have designations under the Endangered Species Act. Three of the eight are known from historic records only. Of the remaining five extant species, three are listed as endangered, one as threatened, and another is proposed for listing.

Dr. Wayne Barger of Alabama Department of Conservation, State Lands Division, talked of the importance of adding to the collections and identifying the species, like those found in the Bio-Blitz. “We are still working to get all the data identified. It was a good day. It adds to our knowledge as we move forward.” Regarding its potential, Barger added, “It scored well as a nature preserve. This will protect its diversity” and allow people to observe nature, bird watch and hike – “enjoy nature as it should be.”

“For The Friends of Big Canoe Creek it has always been about protecting and educating ourselves and our community about Big Canoe Creek,” said Vickey Wheeler.

 “The Big Canoe Creek Nature Preserve is our ‘living museum.’  We are planning ways everyone of all ages and abilities will have the opportunity to observe and learn about the natural world. A system of educational, gentle walking trails in combination with more strenuous hiking trails is what we are looking at first for public use.   Whichever direction our community chooses to support, we must put the health and protection of the creek at the forefront of all decisions we make in planning Big Canoe Creek Nature Preserve.

Healthy creeks equal healthy communities.”

Future plans will include ways to connect with the city and bring support to local businesses. “We are continuing our talks with the city and county to bring more conservation areas into Alabama,” she said.

Evan Lawrence, a biologist in State Land Recreational Management, said his group is working closely with Springville to guide the process. “Plans call for a hiking trail system through there, mountain biking trails and possibly horseback trails.”

As the preserve nears opening in about six months, boundaries are being marked, a gate will be installed at the entrance to the property, the road is being improved and a kiosk in the parking area will be set up to offer information about the property.

Development of it will come in phases en route to a preserve destined to become a destination point, supporters say.

 

Success at last

Why so much preliminary work? Alabama’s biodiversity ranks Number 1 in so many categories, first in the U.S. in freshwater fishes, freshwater snails, freshwater mussels, crayfish and turtles. It is important to document the flora and fauna on this tract of land and the creatures in the creek. It gives historical data about the existing ecosystem and helps us better understand this Nature balance.  Are there existing conditions affecting the plants or wildlife? Invasive species are everywhere, how bad is it here? Where exactly are they on the property? Are there any rare species found? Where can new trails go that won’t affect any special plants found?

Nine years is a long time for a quest, but Morrison said all the work and the angst were worth it in the end. But he is quick to point out that it really isn’t the end, it’s a new beginning.

“At one time, there was talk of a development on this property, and we were concerned about the effects this would have on the creek as this property borders the creek. As we were looking for ways to preserve this property, Vickey Wheeler and I had a meeting with two members of Springville’s Planning and Zoning group, Stephen Graham and David Jones. Mr. Jones, now on the City Council, pointed out the Forever Wild program to us. We took the idea and ran with it.

“Alex Varner, now with The Nature Conservancy, a good friend and fellow Friends member, went with me to meet one of the landowners on the property and pitch the idea to him, to let The Friends of Big Canoe Creek nominate this property to Forever Wild. I’ll never forget the landowner asking how long it would take. I said then, “I have no idea, but what do you have to lose?”  Who knew it would take nine years? One of our board members, Sean Andrews, was very beneficial in drawing up the necessary documents, maps, etc. for the nomination package and the journey began.”

 

Help along the way

“We met Wendy Jackson with the Freshwater Land Trust, and she was very instrumental from the beginning. She helped pitch the idea of a different type of economy with green space to the City of Springville and St. Clair County.  We met with the Springville City Council and the St. Clair County Commission, and they jumped on board and assisted financially to make this happen,” Morrison said. “This would not have happened, period, without their backing.

“Libba Vaughn carried the torch after Wendy left FWLT and attended the Forever Wild Board meetings with us. There were many roadblocks along the way, a lot of heartaches, headaches and frustrations, but we never lost hope.” 

Morrison expressed gratitude to Friends members and board members, Mayor Isley for seeing the possibilities and believing in the project, the St. Clair Commission chairmen, Stan Batemon, originally, then Paul Manning, the Springville City Council, the St. Clair County Commission, Candice Hill, Don Smith and Dean Goforth for “helping get us to the goal line. Myself, I had many sleepless nights in those nine years – too many to count. The bottom line is, we got it going, the community paid attention, and the resources needed joined forces to make the Big Canoe Creek Nature Preserve a reality.”

“I believe that part of the the impact of the Forever Wild nature park in Springville will be to provide an untouched, natural and beautiful  portion of God’s creation – Earth –  made available to our citizens, neighbors, families and friends,” said Springville Mayor William “Butch” Isley. “The users of this beautiful sanctuary full of wildlife, fish and foliage will be able to spend time there in wonder and bewilderment at the beauty of this preserved area.”

In addition, he said, “The city of Springville – its citizens, businesses, churches and community residents will be benefitted in many ways by hosting guests and visitors from all parts of St. Clair and surrounding counties as everyone hears about this beautiful nature park.”

 

A bright future

“I see the Forever Wild program as a unique way to preserve property in the State of Alabama, for the good of the State and its people. We hope this Big Canoe Creek Nature Preserve will benefit folks in our communities, benefit our educational institutions for research, outdoor classrooms, etc., and help maintain a natural balance for generations to come,” he said.

With an unmistakable passion, he added, “Big Canoe Creek is a special tributary. I know this Preserve just adds a small bit of protection from over development along the creek, but perhaps it can serve as food for thought. It will be wonderful to see folks getting outdoors and just enjoying nature for what it is. Take a clean breath and enjoy a little bit of tranquility while observing nature. I think folks will come, especially when the weather is cool, to enjoy a hike, get some exercise and just unwind. It may be like Field of Dreams, in reverse.  If you don’t build it, they will come.”

Canoe Creek Park

New park haven for anglers, boaters, vacationers on Neely Henry

Story by Paul South
Photos by Carol Pappas

Though decades have sped by since Jeff Brown’s boyhood growing up near Neely Henry Lake, his memories are as fresh as a newly-baked biscuit, or freshly-caught crappie squirming on a line.

“It’s been a marina forever,” Brown said. “When I was a kid, I remember running home from school, jumping in the boat and trying to catch some fish,” Brown, now a St. Clair County commissioner, said. But fishing for crappie and striped bass were only part of what hooked Brown on Neely Henry.

His voice cracked with emotion as he recalled camping with family near the lake. “I still remember my Mama making gravy and biscuits when we would be in our camper out there,” Brown said. “I’ve got a lot of great memories there.”

After investing more than $1 million to build the new Canoe Creek Boat Launch on Neely Henry, St. Clair County hopes to create a new batch of precious memories for current and future generations.

For many years, the launch was owned by Tom Willard, who eventually sold the facility to the county. For years, the county maintained the facility, until it learned of some grant funding available from the Alabama Department of Fish and Wildlife. In 2008-09, the county was awarded a $750,000 grant. The county came up with the additional funds.

“That got the ball rolling,” Brown said. The refurbished launch was unveiled last year.

“It’s a great facility,” Brown said. “We’ve got about 80 parking places for truck and trailer, 85 boat slips, four handicapped accessible slips, a floating dock you can put boats under in inclement weather, two fantastic docks, three lanes wide, to launch a boat from… In 2019, they are going to lower the water some, and the state is going to come in and add another 30 feet to the existing ramps. You’ll be able to launch in any kind of water then, whether it’s up or down. It’s been a great project.

“There’s also room for fishing off the banks of the lake. You can carry the kids down there and sit on the rocks and fish. It’s a very productive place to fish,” Brown said.

That productivity – waters teeming with bass and crappie – won’t only lure beginning anglers, but the county hopes some of the best fishermen in the world will come to Neely Henry for competitive fishing tournaments. In fact, tournaments may be a part of life at the new launch as early as this summer.

“It’s one of the targets I’d like to see it reach,” Brown said. “I’ve had people contact me already about holding bass tournaments and crappie-thons. I think it’s coming together quickly.”

Public and private efforts on the waters of St. Clair County like the new launch, kayaking, camping and cycling areas, picnic areas and new lakefront residential development, are helping transform the county into a hotspot for environmental tourism, from Logan Martin to Neely Henry, from Canoe Creek to Chandler Mountain.

Gene Phifer, president of the Neely Henry Lake Association, said the new launch has created a positive buzz.

“We have been down there and kept track of the progress. As far as being a functional, nice boat launch, it’s fully functional. There is a lot of excitement about it. It’s a beautiful facility.”

Brown agrees. “It’s a tremendous draw. Pleasure boating is a big thing on our lake,” Brown said. “You can’t just put a pontoon in any water. You have to have a good ramp and good water.”

The Canoe Creek Boat Launch project is close to Brown’s heart. He hopes the place will become special to visitors and locals alike. His own family camped at Evans Marina, only three miles from the new launch.

“I’m teared-up now,” Brown said. “Good times are hard to beat. I have a lot of good memories. I remember waking up to my Mama’s breakfast cooking. And we had fried crappie for supper a lot of times.”

As for the future of the launch and Neely Henry Lake, Brown is optimistic.

“I just see it continuing to grow. Growth is great as long as it’s done right, and that’s been the case with the private sector and with the county commission and the store owners,” Brown said. “It’s got to help Etowah County and Ragland, too. That’s what I love about the launch. It’s reaching out to a lot of different areas.”

Kelley Taft, engineer on the project, couldn’t agree more. She noted that the design “highlights the quiet lake community as a fishing asset. The marina is ADA compliant and creates inclusive access for people with a range of abilities. County Engineer Dan Dahlke and his staff did an amazing job implementing the design with skilled county construction crews.”

Brown is as clear as the lake water when he talks about the growth on Neely Henry. It’s about being a good neighbor to locals and tourists alike.

 “I want to grow in a way that the neighbors are proud of it. I don’t want to be the new kid on the block that runs the neighbors off. I want the neighbors to say, ‘Wow, look at what we’ve got.’”