It was 1863, and America was imploding, ravaged by the effects of the Civil War. Brother met brother in battle, homes were burned and cities destroyed.
In Bennington County, Vermont, 46-year-old Jane A. Stickle channeled her energy, creativity and wartime grief into creating what is now one of the most famous quilts in the world. She stitched into one corner of her masterpiece the simple, yet haunting words – “In War Time 1863.”
Stickle’s quilt, now called the “Dear Jane” quilt, is a sampler, meaning that each of the squares is unique. Unlike most sampler quilts which typically use blocks created by different quilters, Stickle created each of the elements herself. She created most of the patterns for the blocks herself, utilizing established patterns for less than a third of her quilt. She also did not repeat a patterned fabric in any of the blocks.
The Dear Jane quilt has been housed in the Bennington Museum in Bennington, Vermont, for nearly seven decades. To protect the integrity of the fragile fabrics, the quilt is only displayed for one month each year, with thousands of quilters making the pilgrimage from as far away as Europe and Australia to view the piece.
County historian Joe Whitten talks history of quilts in special presentation
Rhonda Humphries has not yet been to see Stickle’s Dear Jane quilt but has spent thousands of hours on her own replica. Humphries, a member of the Friendship Quilters Guild of St. Clair County, was encouraged in the project by other guild members and her friend and mentor, Brenda Franklin.
Undaunted by the 5,602 individual pieces it takes to make the project, Humphries worked for two and a half years until the 169 five-inch blocks, 52 triangles, and four corner kites came together in her own finished masterpiece.
Humphries used Civil War era reproduction fabric and followed patterns created by Brenda Manges Papadakis, who viewed Jane’s original quilt in the museum in 1992 and meticulously traced each piece.
Papadakis so admired Stickle’s work that she was inspired to write a book published four years later called The Two Hundred Twenty-Five Patterns from the 1863 Jane A. Stickle Quilt, which included the patterns quilters could use to reproduce the quilt. Many quilters are inspired by the Dear Jane Quilt, and many bring their finished pieces when they make the trip to the Bennington Museum to view the original.
Like the Dear Jane Quilt, Humphries’ quilt is hand-pieced and hand-stitched, an effort that took incredible patience, perseverance and precision. “The most difficult part,” says Humphries, “was one block with a star inside. It’s made up of 30 pieces and, by itself, took three days to complete.” She has been quilting for eight years and has made 40-50 quilts but hadn’t done many quilts at the time she took on this challenge.
“Most people who start this quilt do not finish. It’s pretty involved,” admits Humphries. The blue ribbon and people’s choice awards from her recent entry in a quilt show pinned to the top say the effort has been well appreciated.
Humphries’ quilt was on display recently in a special exhibit at the Museum of Pell City, along with dozens of other quilts made by members of the Friendship Quilters Guild. Looking at each quilt is like looking at fine art in a gallery. Each quilt tells a story, whether one of whimsey or of more important historical matters.
Naomi Kircus is the creator of The Underground Railroad quilt. Its blocks relate the story of the freedom seekers during abolition. Created with Civil War replica fabric, the quilt is made up of 16 blocks, each a reproduction of one that would hang in the windows of safe houses. “When the slaves were running for their freedom, people would have safe places for them to stay,” explained Kircus. “They would display quilts [in the windows] where each of the squares was a message they were communicating to those they were helping.”
The personal narratives and messages communicated through quilting continue to be a source of pride and precious history for families and communities today. Quilts are handed down from generation to generation, becoming treasured heirlooms.
The Friendship Quilters Guild occasionally offers classes in quilting for those wanting to learn the skills and process. The guild has been together for more than 25 years and meets on the second Saturday of each month at Mt. Moriah Baptist Church in Pell City.
Rhonda Humphries and her Dear Jane Quilt
Organizer of the quilt exhibit and guild member Deb Cearley adds that the group has a passion for service. They make covers for cancer ports, fidget quilts, hospital bedrail bags and full-size quilts that they donate to area hospitals, cancer centers and hospice groups.
“Service is the main thing we do,” said Cearley. “I came to a program here for Veterans and saw many of them come in with their blankets on their laps in their wheelchairs, and that just inspired us to make more.” They also provide placemats for Meals on Wheels and pet beds for Pell City’s animal shelter.
Florence Kerr, one of the oldest standing members of the organization, adds one more benefit to quilting, beyond its artistic and storytelling value. “Quilting is therapy,” she says. “It’s therapy because you have to be in a quiet place and really focus on the process.”
Perhaps the process really is the heart of the matter for the quilt’s creator, though it is the product that inspires the rest of us.
Home of Broadway actress, Springville teacher being restored with ‘love’
Story by Scottie Vickery Photos by Mackenzie Free
After leaving a career on Broadway during the Great Depression, Margaret Byers took center stage in the hearts of Springville residents. She was a little person – not much bigger than the first-graders she taught for decades – but she made a tremendous impact on everyone she met.
That’s a big part of the reason why Nancy Tucker and her daughter, Tami Spires, have taken such care while renovating the home where “Miss Margaret,” as she was affectionately known, lived most of her life. “We just felt like we needed to honor her,” Tami said.
Tami and Nancy take a break on Miss Margaret’s porch swing
The home, which Miss Margaret’s parents built in 1891, has some unique features, including doorknobs that are much lower than typical to accommodate their daughter’s small stature. “She just quit growing as a child,” Tami said. “No one really knows why.”
One of Nancy’s favorite features of the home, which boasts 14-foot ceilings, is an old phone nook that’s built into a wall and is only about 2 feet off the ground. “She had a little chair that sat next to it,” Nancy said. “It’s such a unique house, and we’re so happy to have it.”
Neither of the women was in the market for a new home when Nancy first saw the “For Sale” sign while walking with a friend one morning last summer. In fact, they both live right down the street from the Byers home, with Nancy’s house directly behind Tami’s.
Still, Nancy had a feeling she just couldn’t shake. “When I saw it that morning, I thought, ‘That’s going to be ours,’” she said. “I wanted it the minute I found out it was for sale, before I even went in it.”
Nancy immediately called Tami, who contacted the real estate agent and scheduled a tour. A few hours after the walk-through, Nancy had a contract on the yellow house that stands directly across the street from Springville Middle School.
“We walked across the threshold, and she said, ‘I’m buying it,’” Tami said. Nancy wanted it so badly, in fact, that she didn’t even get an inspection on the house before signing the papers.
“I bought it like it was a loaf of bread,” Nancy said with a laugh. “I didn’t even think about the structure of the house or anything like that. I just loved it.”
Fortunately, they’ve since learned that, despite being more than 130 years old, the house is in pretty good condition. “There was no mold, no leaks, nothing wrong with the foundation,” Tami said. “We got lucky.”
They replaced the knob and tube wiring that is common in historic homes and can pose safety concerns, as well as some rotten porch boards. They covered up the fireplace in the dining room, one of four that were in the original house, and had the chimney removed because it was in bad shape. They also had new kitchen cabinets, which were not original to the home, and new countertops installed.
Everything else has been done by the mother/daughter duo. “Mom and I have singlehandedly done 95 percent of everything inside the house that’s been done,” Tami said. “Every weekend, we’re either here working on the house or shopping for things to furnish it. The shopping is more fun.”
While they love the history of old houses – Tami’s home was built in 1885, and Nancy’s was built in 1926 – they are especially intrigued with this one just because it belonged to Miss Margaret.
She was a beloved first-grade teacher for decades, and Nancy, Tami and Tami’s daughter, Rebekah Wester, are all teachers, as well.
Nancy taught Business at Springville High School for 26 years before retiring in 2000. A former English teacher at Moody Middle School, Tami is currently the counselor at Springville Elementary School. And Rebekah, who will live in the home once renovations are complete, teaches English at Ragland High School.
“We kind of feel a kinship with Miss Margaret because she was a teacher, and we are three generations of teachers,” Tami said. A member of the Springville Preservation Society, she leads walking tours of Springville for the fourth-grade students each year and for the public each spring. “This has always been my favorite house to talk about,” she said. “I love telling everyone about Miss Margaret.”
Small stature, tremendous impact
As a young woman, Miss Margaret dreamed of a career on the stage. Born into one of Springville’s pioneer families, she went to Huntingdon College in Montgomery after graduating from high school. A singer and dancer, she also attended an arts school in Chicago, according to an article on the “Tiny Teacher” that appeared in The Birmingham News in 1953.
Margaret Byers teaching reading
She moved to New York as a young woman and appeared in several Broadway productions in the late 1920s and early 1930s. “We’ve always been told she was a munchkin in the Broadway production of The Wizard of Oz, but we have not confirmed that to be true,” Tami said.
She did, however, play children’s roles in several productions. According to Broadway databases and other sources, she was cast in Merry-Go-Round, which played in 1927 at the Klaw Theatre, and in Her Unborn Child, which played in 1928 at the 48th Street Theatre. In 1929, 1930 and 1931, she played Bo-Peep in Babes in Toyland at the Imperial Theatre. She also was in a traveling theater troupe at some point, according to The Birmingham News article.
“She got to play a lot of the children’s roles on Broadway,” Tami said. Child labor laws were strictly enforced at the time, and at one theater, child welfare officials came after the director because they thought she was working too late at night. “She had to show them her ID to prove she was a grown woman,” Tami said.
A few years into the Depression, Miss Margaret returned home to Springville. “She was told to find another career because people just weren’t going to the theater anymore,” Tami explained.
Miss Margaret enrolled at Jacksonville State University and earned an education degree. She started teaching first grade at the Old Rock School, now an historic landmark. “If you got Miss Margaret, you were somebody,” said Nancy, whose son, Jamey, was in her last first-grade class. “I was so excited when I heard she would be his teacher. I thought I would absolutely die if he didn’t get Miss Margaret.”
Sandra Jones, a Springville native who now lives in Pell City, was another one of the lucky students. In 1994, she wrote a column about her former teacher for the St. Clair News Aegis and included a memory of the first time she met the woman who “was practically a living legend in Springville.”
“Margaret Byers wasn’t much taller than I – even in her tiny high-heeled shoes,” she wrote. “I studied the pert, pixieish woman as she darted about, smiling and chatting. Her face reflected warmth and there was a pleasant lilt in her voice. As I watched her, my fears suddenly melted away. In an instant, I came under the spell of ‘Miss Margaret’ – a spell that still lingers even after all these years.”
Even though she left the stage, Miss Margaret still loved to perform. She had an upright piano in her classroom and would often sing songs for her students. “She knew all the latest tunes: ‘Sugartime,’ ‘Catch a Falling Star,’ and ‘Mr. Sandman’ – and we sang them all,” Sandra wrote.
One of her fondest memories is of the day Miss Margaret let Sandra wear her shoes. “I had a pair of those play high heeled shoes that I had carried to school for Show and Tell. She traded shoes with me and let me wear her tiny high heels all day,” Sandra said. “They fit perfectly.”
Although she was well-prepared for second-grade, Sandra said the life lessons she learned from Miss Margaret were as important as the curriculum.
“Though she was small in stature, she was big on life; a buoyant bundle of boundless energy,” she wrote in her column. “And though she taught me ‘reading, writing, and arithmetic,’ I think the most valuable lesson I learned from her was the importance of blending work and play. She taught me that life is held in balance with the right portion of each.”
It needs to be loved
Those are the kinds of stories Nancy and Tami love hearing now that they’ve bought the house, which has had several owners since Miss Margaret passed away in 1987. Since taking possession of the house on Aug. 1, they’ve spent all their free time renovating it together.
“We have probably spent more time together in the past few months than we have in the last year, and she lives right next door,” Tami said with a laugh. “We’re not afraid to tackle anything. We’ll try anything once, and we’ve learned a lot.”
Margaret Byers with her class in front of old rock school in Springville
They’ve painted every room in the house, which was no small feat with the tall ceilings. “I was here by myself one day on top of a ladder, and I thought, ‘That’s kind of stupid, being 88 and being up on top of a 14-foot ladder,” Nancy said. “We decided after that neither of us would get on a ladder unless someone else was here,” Tami added.
They hung new wallpaper in the bathroom, which still has the original cast iron tub. When they pulled off the previous owner’s, some of the sheetrock came with it, so they decided to paint over the wallpaper hanging in the living room. “It’s not professionally done at all, but everything we’ve done has been done with love,” Tami said.
She replaced the kitchen backsplash, and she and Nancy have spent countless days painstakingly scraping linoleum off the kitchen floor and trying to save the hardwood floors in that room. When they needed a break, Tami set up her sewing machine in the sitting room and made all the curtains, which are 108 inches in length.
Through the years, previous owners made some changes to the house. The kitchen was originally located in the back of the house, with an attached butler’s pantry. A maid’s room was just across the back porch. Now, the kitchen is in the center of the home, and the back room has been turned into a bedroom. Tami and Nancy hope to eventually turn the pantry into a second full bath.
“The layout is not ideal for modern living, but it is what it is,” Tami said. “That’s kind of the charm.”
Now that the inside is nearing completion, the focus will soon turn to the outside. They want to clear the brush off the side lot and restore the yard to its former glory. They also plan to paint the outside of the house, and Nancy has decided that’s a job for someone else.
“We talked about doing it ourselves and just taking a section at a time,” Tami said. Nancy wasn’t convinced. “She talked about it, not me,” she said with a grin. “We’ve still got a lot of work to do, and you have to wait on one thing to finish another. We don’t want to get new gutters until we paint the house, and we don’t want to paint the house until we get some of these limbs cut.”
Once the renovations are finally complete, Nancy and Tami want to host an Open House for all of Miss Margaret’s former students. “Ever since we bought the house, people have been sharing so many wonderful stories about her, and we want to get everyone together and get those stories written down,” Tami said.
“Miss Margaret was loved by the whole community,” Nancy added. “She was loved by the other teachers, she was loved by the students, she was just loved by everyone.”
And that’s why they feel honored to be the next caretakers of the house that shaped the little woman with the big heart. “We were so afraid someone would come in and not love it the way we do and tear it down,” Tami said. “It doesn’t need to be torn down; it needs to be loved.”
It has become an annual tradition at Museum of Pell City each November as it seeks to honor, preserve and promote its military history in Salute to Veterans Nov. 7.
Now in its third year, the museum is redesigning and expanding its military exhibit space, increasing its focus on more modern-day wars and conflicts and adding an impressive interactive display – a fighter jet simulator. It will open Nov. 7, kicking off with a special reception at 10 a.m. in the banquet room of the Municipal Complex below the museum.
Existing military displays getting redesign
Headlining the event will be St. Clair County District Attorney Lyle Harmon, a veteran helicopter pilot in Iraq and Afghanistan.
“Much of our exhibit space to this point has been on earlier wars – World War I and II, Korean and Vietnam,” said President Carol Pappas. “What we wanted to do is provide a more comprehensive picture of our military history – bringing in more photographs and artifacts from the Persian Gulf War and the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. We have so many veterans from those conflicts in our community, and we wanted a way to preserve and share their stories.”
One of the centerpieces of the new exhibit will be photos and artifacts from the estate of Admiral Dennis Brooks, who served as Commander of the Joint Forces in the Persian Gulf. His long and storied career includes a visit aboard his ship from then President Ronald Reagan. His flight jacket as a fighter jet pilot in earlier days is on display among many other artifacts.
“We’ll have oral histories from his son, Mark Brooks, who also served as a fighter jet pilot and rose to the rank of …, who relates his father’s stories of achievement, sacrifice and the principles that guided him. We have other veterans of Iraq and Afghanistan, who share their own story, all of which will be presented in our own documentary,” Pappas said.
Challenge coin memento given to veterans at inaugural salute
“An examination of this era must also include the painful transition of coming home, and we will feature on film the story of a mother whose son took his own life, an all too familiar account, and her fight to help other veterans.”
Excitement is building as museum designer Jeremy Gossett and pilot consultant Donnie Todd put together the fighter jet simulator exhibit. “I won’t spoil the unveiling, but I can promise that it will be an attraction for all ages,” Pappas said.
This project could not have been possible without community support. “In an effort led by our treasurer, Zachary Gentile, and Museum Coordinator Erica Grieve, we were able to raise nearly $7,000 to bring this plan to fruition. We thank donors Glenda Harris, Paula Hereford, Inpac, St. Clair County Airport Authority, Dream Home Inspections, David Smith, Alan and Sandra Furr and Donnie and Ellen Todd. They stepped forward in a big way to make this project happen.”
As is the museum’s custom, a reception honoring all veterans with a keynote talk by Harmon will be held at 11 a.m., followed by the exhibit opening, tour and film showings.
“We invite everyone to this special tribute,” Pappas said. “It is truly a community event, and we are honored to present it.”
If you should travel a St. Clair County backroad some afternoon and arrive at Willie Mae “Snookie” Beavers’ home for a visit, she might respond to a question by saying, “Now, back in them days …”
If she does, sit up and listen, for she has lived almost a century of Pell City history. She will converse with you in her Southern dialect that is as soft and melodious as Mahalia Jackson singing, “Precious Lord Take My Hand.”
Both Pell City and St. Clair County need to know what she can tell us about how it used to be with farming, gardening, killing hogs, preserving vegetables and fruits, playing the church piano and sewing old-timey quilts. She is one-of-a-kind, as all treasures are.
Born Jan. 9, 1927, to James and Bessie Moore Turner, Willie Mae was the first of the 10 Turner children. The family farmed Turner land in the Coosa Valley, south of Seddon, and she began working in the fields as soon as she was big enough to work.
“We farmed, raising cotton and corn and sugar cane. My parents worked in the fields, and I worked right there beside them,” Willie Mae says matter-of-factly. “I think I worked harder than any of the others cause I was the first one. And I didn’t just work in our fields, I worked in other folk fields, too. If they needed somebody, I went. Whatever was in the field, I was in there, and I did it. What the plow couldn’t do, we did with a hoe,” she laughed. “And after I got married, I still went to other folk fields and worked. Back in them days, that’s the way I had to make my money.”
Willie Mae married William Beavers on June 18, 1948, and they were parents to six children: Shirley, Connie, Wilma, William (BeBop) Jr., Bennie and Rodrick. All seven are still living. As the babies arrived and grew up, Willie Mae continued “working in fields” until she took a job with Pell City Cleaners.
She started working at the cleaners before she was 62 years old, but doesn’t remember the exact date. She started drawing her Social Security at age 62 but didn’t retire until she was 96. When asked why she retired, she laughed and said that one of her daughters told her she was too old to keep working, that she needed to retire. Willie Mae told her, “Well, the bossman said I was doing the work …. But she told me that if I didn’t come out, she’s gonna tell ‘em to fire me, and I believed she would’ve, so I come out.”
Her hardy laugh showed she was enjoying telling this. “I don’t know if he’d a-fired me or not, if she would-a told him to.”
Other than a brief time as a teenager washing dishes at the St. Clair County Training School, the Pell City Cleaners job was the only work she did other than farm work.
Gathered produce had to be preserved for the winter months. Willie Mae helped her mother can vegetables as they came in. As to fruit, they canned peaches for they were too juicy to dry, but they dried apples by the peck. “That’s where I learned how to can,” Willie Mae recalled. “I did what my mama done, I just couldn’t do it as good as she did.” What cucumbers they didn’t eat they pickled. She spoke of smokehouse pickles as quite delicious.
When the sorghum cane was mature, it was time to make syrup. Her dad set up the syrup mill and the boiling pan. Willie Mae and sisters stripped the cane and cut it in pieces ready to be fed to the mill as the mule walked round and round turning the mill, squeezing the juice from the cane into buckets. Poured into a boiling pan, the juice cooked down to syrup. “We poured the syrup in cans,” Willie Mae recalled, “and we ate biscuits and syrup.” She didn’t say it, but that was some good eating.
Willie Mae’s Trip Around the World quilt in a local collector’s home
When asked about wild game for food, she said, “We loved rabbit and squirrel. That was good eating.” She paused, then laughing, said, “And possum. Mama did all the cooking, and everything she made was good.” Obviously enjoying remembering, she continued, “She made good dressing, good cakes, good custard, good biscuits.”
When hog killing weather came, Willie Mae learned from her mama about sausage, souse meat, and chitlins.
They used some less desirable cuts of pork to grind up for sausage, adding pepper and sage to the mixture. Willie Mae’s dad had a smokehouse where they hung the sausage, but the other cuts of meat they salted down in a wooden saltbox.
Asked about old-timey head cheese or souse meat, Willie Mae smiled, “I always made the souse meat. Made it out-a the head, and out-a the feet, and out-a the ears. We had a big pot, and I’d put it all in a pot and boil it till it got done, I’d pick all the bones out of it, and start mashing up the meat with my hands. Then I’d grind that all up with the sausage grinder. And that’s when I’d put different spices in it.” They formed the meat into a loaf shape to let it set until it was firm. Some call souse meat the original deli meat, for it makes delicious sandwiches.
Nothing about the hog went to waste, not even the intestines. They cut them into short pieces and washed them over and over until they were clean. “We’d get as much fat off as we could,” Willie Mae said. “We cooked ’em in a boiler for several hours with salt and pepper. Some folks fry ’em, but we didn’t, we just boiled ours till they got done. To me, that was some good eating.”
Willie Mae’s baby photo
Today chitlins are regarded as solely a Black culture soul food, but Rev. Larry Adams of Mt. Zion Baptist Church in Springville can attest that chitlins are served in restaurants in France. Rev. Adams was on a teaching mission trip in Paris with Pastor Chipley Thornton and Pastor David DuPre from Springville First Baptist Church. For lunch one day, the three went to a Paris restaurant. Unable to read French, Pastor DuPre pointed to a picture and ordered it. When their meals were served, Rev. Adams looked at his friend and said, “You’re eating chitlins.” His friend said, “No.” Rev. Adams said, “I know chitlins, and you’re eating chitlins.” Sure enough, when they translated the menu offering it was chitterlings, or in Alabama, chitlins.
What Willie Mae learned growing up, she continues today, which includes growing vegetables. “Folks need to raise stuff,” she vows decisively. “If they don’t, they not gonna have anything to eat. The stores ain’t gonna have it. If you don’t raise it, you ain’t gonna have nothing to eat.”
She now gardens with baby brother, Larry Turner, and their garden is weed and grass free. When asked what they grew, she laughed, “We grow everything that can be raised – turnip greens, mustard, onions, green beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and all such stuff as that. Anything that can be raised. We always had a good garden. Larry had a jam-up garden. Me and him been raising a garden.” She paused, then said, “They say I’m lazy, but I just done got old.”
She may have slowed down, but “lazy” is not a word that fits Willie Mae Beavers. No lazy person on God’s green earth sews quilt tops and quilts them by hand. Willie Mae does, and her quilts are treasured by family, friends and folks she’s never met. A commendation from the Alabama House of Representatives read by Representative Hall on May 16, 2017, records that “…her magnificent quilts are displayed in homes across the United States,” and that “…many have received one of her famous quilts in celebration of a significant life milestone.”
Willie Mae’s love of quilts perhaps started with her grandmother, Henrietta Turner, whose house was a short walk through the woods from Willie Mae’s. “We walked over there to her house every day. She never acted like she got tired of us. She was a good grandmama.” And her love of quilts may have started with her grandmama, for she recently reminisced, “I used to enjoy looking at her quilts. She used to have these frames that you hang up in the house from the ceiling, and you had to hang ’em by their four corners. She hung it up and let it down to quilt on it. She used what she had to make ‘em: old clothes, pants and things.” Then, laughing, she said, “You know what, I went to the library the other day and saw these cotton carders, and I said, “Oh, my mama had some of these.” Carders were used to separate cotton from the seeds so the cotton could be used as the inner batting (padding) for the quilt.
Willie Mae enjoys talking about quilts. “I treasure quilts, but young folks …” she paused and shook her head, leaving the “don’t” unsaid, then continued on a happier note. “Mama always quilted. She made pretty quilts. My quilting’s not as pretty as hers.” She used cloth flour sacks, feed sacks and fertilizer sacks, when she began learning to quilt.
Bought fabric in quilts was unheard of among rural folk in the 1930s and ‘40s.
“I’d get the empty ones,” she said recently, “and wash ’em and I started making quilts from them.” Then came the phrase, “Back in them days, you didn’t buy anything. You had to use what you had. So, I would quilt, and I didn’t really have patterns then, it would just be blocks that they called the Nine Diamond.”
She still makes the Nine Diamond, but other quilt patterns she likes include Trip Around the World, Monkey Wrench, Stars and Bow Tie. “Nothing fancy. These real fancy quilts with a whole lot-a pretty little bitty pieces – I don’t do that,” she laughed. “I don’t know how old I was when I started quilting. But I been doing that all my life. I’m 98 years old, but I’ve been quilting – piecing and quilting all my life. My mama did it, and what I did, I tried to do it like her.”
An ear for piano
One thing Willie Mae does that she didn’t learn from her mother is playing the piano. Knowing her daughter wanted a piano, Mrs. Turner went to a piano store in Anniston and bought one. “I know she got tired of me playing, but she never told me to stop.” Willie Mae pauses to reflect, “If somebody ask me to play in the key of C or F sharp, I wouldn’t know what they was talking about. The Preacher one time asked me to play ‘Precious Lord’ in C. I played if for him, but I didn’t know if I played it in C,” she laughed.
She never took piano lessons, but she could play on the piano whatever she heard sung or played on the radio. At age 14, she began playing piano for Blooming Light Church, and she recalled how that happened. “I’m sure they had other players, but Mr. McHugh came to Papa and said, ‘I heard your daughter played the piano.’ And I started from there.” She couldn’t remember what month and year she started, but she continued as pianist and music director until in her 90s when COVID kept her and the congregation away from church services. “The first song I played at church,” she recalled fondly, “was ‘The Old Account Was Settled Long Ago.’” The last song she plays in church is yet to come.
Willie Mae and good friend Johnnie Mae Green
Willie Mae’s baby brother, Larry Turner, says folks need to know that she was not only the pianist at Blooming Light but that she was also the Minister of Music there and was Minister of Music for Riverside and for Rocky Zion for a while as well.
“I played for Rocky Zion,’ Willie Mae reflected, “and I played for Riverside, and for Peace and Goodwill.” Her dad, Rev. James R. Turner, was pastor at Peace and Goodwill at Riverside.
Asked if she played piano for her dad, she answered, “I played for him. Mama told me, ‘You got to.’ I went to all the revivals. That was fun.” She pauses a few seconds and adds sadly, “But church ain’t like what it used to be back in them days. We never sung anything but the old songs. ‘The Old Account Was Settled.’ ‘Oh How I Love Jesus.’ ‘Precious Lord.’ Old songs.” She laughed and said, “Now, I can play for old folks, but I can’t play for teenagers.” Lots of people agree with Willie Mae that the old songs are the best songs.
Larry Turner is proud of his sister and fondly affirms, “She’s legendary. Everybody knows her. Everybody loves her.”
Recently someone asked her, “What would you tell young people about your secret to living almost a hundred years?
“Now, you’re not the first one to ask me that,” she laughed. “And I tell ’em, well, ‘I can’t tell you, cause I do not know.’ She pauses, then says, “I tell ‘em, ‘I come up poor; I worked in the fields … I’ve worked in the fields all my life. I worked in my daddy’s field, and after I got grown, I worked in other folks’ fields. And I’m still here for some reason.”
You’re still here, Willie Mae “Snookie” Beavers, because you’re a St. Clair County and Pell City, Alabama, treasure and we need you. We need the harmony of your music, the beauty of your quilts, and your example of “work hard and live long.”
Most of all we need to hear you telling us how it was “back in them days” so we don’t forget the stamina and character of our ancestors and how they lived and worked and reared families.
You are one-of-a-kind, as all treasures are, and we thank God you’re still here.
Key part of Chandler Mountain’s rare natural beauty
Story by Paul South Photos by Mackenzie Free
Sometimes nature’s miracles enter our hearts, souls and minds with a bang, like the colors of the Northern Lights, or the Hale-Bopp comet piercing a blue-black sky as it did late in the last century. Both phenomena are greeted by “ooohs” and “aaahhhs,” wows or wordless, wide-eyed wonder.
But more often, time and the elements combine quietly with nature to create something magnificent and mystical.
So, it is with the Chandler Natural Bridge, a place known simply as The Rock Bridge. Located near the base of Chandler Mountain that forms part of the St. Clair-Etowah County line, the natural bridge is one of six named natural bridges and two unnamed spans in Alabama, according to the Natural Arch and Bridge Society.
The Rock Bridge spans Little Canoe Creek. It’s 48 feet long, 54 feet wide and 17 feet thick. The top part of the span is made from Gaspar Limestone. Wind and water erosion sculpted the bridge over millions of years.
Since 2003, Save Chandler Mountain, a nonprofit advocacy group for the mountain, has worked to protect the Alabama’s third-largest peak, which is known as the “Tomato Capital of the World.”
Fran Summerlin, founder and president of the advocacy group, has a special place in her heart for the mountain and for the Rock Bridge. She holds dear childhood memories of her brother taking her to see the bridge when she was only five.
“It was fascinating, I’d never seen anything like it. It was wonderful.”
What made it fascinating?
“There was a big rock that looked like a bridge,” Summerlin said.
“When you think of natural bridges all over the country, they’re always revered,” she said. “People love going and seeing them. (The Rock Bridge) was formed by water, and it’s a fascinating place.”
She talks of Alabama Power Company’s unsuccessful plans two years ago to build a hydroelectric dam there, a move that drew vocal opposition from residents, environmentalists and Native American groups. “If the power company project had gone on, it (the bridge) would have been covered with water,” Summerlin said. “It would have been lost.”
In August 2023, Alabama Power withdrew its application to the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission to operate a Pumped Storage Hyrdro facility at Chandler Mountain.
Locals now have a heightened sense of the mountain’s importance. Darrell Hyatt, too, has precious memories of the bridge – picnics, swimming in the creek and exploring the area. “It should be a state park,” Hyatt said. “It’s beyond comprehension that anyone would consider destroying it.”
Summerlin said Save Chandler Mountain is continuing to research the area and work to find historical and archaeological treasures on the mountain. “We will continue to do that and continue to hope that (the utility) would come to some conclusion that the land needs to be preserved.”
Seth Penn is an environmental and political activist and enrolled citizen of the Cherokee Tribe of Northeast Alabama. While he couldn’t speak specifically about the significance of the Rock Bridge to indigenous peoples, generally speaking, natural arches and bridges often have sacred meaning for Native American tribes, who often see natural bridges as portals to the upper and lower spiritual worlds.
“I don’t know a lot of specifics about that specific natural bridge itself to really give you a lot of insight,” Penn said. “I can tell you that a lot of natural bridges … and special occurring rock features such as that which occur on the landscape are often seen as portal-type places, meaning they are significant to various indigenous tribes. And often, those are places where certain ceremonies or prayers will be conducted because they do believe sites like that have special spiritual significance.”
Rich Beckman, Knight Chair of Journalism Emeritus at the University of Miami (FL), is president of the nonprofit Natural Arch and Bridge Society. Formed in 1968, the 200-member organization works to protect natural arches and bridges and promote the study, appreciation and preservation of the natural structures.
While the NABS is small compared to other environmental groups like the Sierra Club, Beckman said the organization can “raise a ruckus” when natural treasures like the Rock Bridge are threatened.
“We don’t preserve natural arches, but we do try to help them live out their life cycle without abuse,” he wrote in an e-mail. “So, we are concerned about any planned or criminal destruction by man.”
The NABS joined locals and indigenous peoples to oppose an Alabama Power plan to build a hydroelectric power facility on Chandler Mountain, a proposal opponents of the plan argued would flood Chandler Mountain and leave the natural bridge underwater.
In the face of opposition, the utility withdrew its Federal Energy Regulatory Commission permit request and shelved the proposal, at least for now.
“We certainly let the utility know of our disapproval,” Beckman wrote. “(The Alabama Power proposal) would have been a disaster.”
The land where the bridge resides is fenced off by Alabama Power and closed to the public.
However, a portion of the utility-owned land on the mountain is open to hunters under Alabama Power’s hunting license program.
In an email, company spokesman Joey Blackwell wrote, “Through this program, parcels of land across the state are awarded through a public auction program,” Blackwell wrote. “Once a hunting license is awarded to a particular hunting club, the property can only be hunted by its members and guests.”
The utility makes some of its land holdings available for public use, including public access points across 13 reservoirs in partnership with local and state agencies, Blackwell said. The hunting license program is one of those initiatives.
Blackwell defended Alabama Power’s land use practices. “Alabama Power manages its St. Clair and Etowah County property holdings in the same way we work to be good stewards of land across out state,” Blackwell wrote. “Alabama is one of the most biodiverse states in the country, and experts in forestry, biology and wetlands management work together to protect our natural resources.”
Meanwhile, Save Chandler Mountain’s preservation work continues. How can citizens get involved?
“There’s power in numbers,” Summerlin said. “They could join Save Chandler Mountain, get on our Facebook page. We continue to strive to preserve this land. Just get involved with us.”
Hyatt said the mountain and the Chandler Natural Bridge are important, not to be taken for granted. “I was in awe of it, even as a child,” he said. “I didn’t really appreciate this place then as much as I do now. The older I get, the more it means.”
What would Summerlin want people who had never seen the Chandler Natural Bridge to know about the span?
“It Is s magical place,” she said. “It deserves to be preserved. In fact, all of this community and this area deserve to be preserved because it is a holy place for the Cherokees. It has incredible historical significance, not just for the indigenous people, but with, for example President Andrew Jackson took the land and either sold it or granted deeds to people.”
Some descendants of those original recipients still have those deeds, Summerlin said.
“This is a very historically significant, culturally significant, and I would like to say, it’s a sacred place.” l
Editor’s Note:For more information about Save Chandler Mountain, contact Fran Summerlin at fransummerlin@att.net, or visit the Save Chandler Mountain Facebook page or on the organization’s website, savechandlermountain.com. Dues are $20 annually.m to keep our programming fresh, giving people a reason to come and come back again to discover our rich history.”
Story by Joe Whitten Photos by Wallace Bromberg Jr. Submitted Photos
Eden. What a lovely name for a town. It calls to mind the biblical Garden of Eden with visions of fertile soil, lush gardens, exotic flowers and green groves of sheltering trees.
One wonders if, in the first quarter of the 19th Century, the settlers to this area saw it like that. Probably not, for trees must be felled, new ground cleared and cultivated, houses and barns built, but it was a place of promise.
It’s uncertain when settlers first began migrating to today’s Eden, but family by family, a community formed. As the 19th Century progressed, businessmen opened stores and shops, and by 1900, it had become the town of Eden.
New Hope Baptist
An April 4, 1906, Pell City Times article records that “…Eden…first bore the name of ‘Manchester,’ but there being another Manchester in the state, it was changed to Eden.”
Personal help with knowing the history towns and churches. In June 1970, Lailah Harris, in a letter to Mrs. E. N. Vandegrift of Oneonta, AL, wrote that although Eden eventually became a part of Pell City, it was a town “before the Civil War.” She also wrote that family tradition says Eden “…was so named by the Inzer family who came from Georgia to Alabama.” The Inzer family’s English ancestral roots were in Edensor, England, implying they left off “sor” and kept Eden as the town’s name. The online link letsgopeakdistrict.co.uk/listing/edensor states that “Edensor” is pronounced “Enzer.”
Mrs. Harris’ great grandfather, Henry Inzer, and his siblings, LaFayette, Mark, Jim, John and Cathrine all settled in St. Clair County. “They lived on Wolf Creek and made their living mostly from the land, although my great grandfather Henry was a preacher, blacksmith and worker in wood and metal.” He served as New Hope’s pastor in 1877.
New Hope Baptist Established
Early settlers needed fellowship, and churches fulfilled that need. By 1824, enough families had settled in today’s Eden to organize New Hope Baptist Church as the only Baptist church in St. Clair County’s Coosa Valley.
It was the second documented Baptist church established in the county. Mt. Zion Baptist (now Springville First Baptist) was established earlier in 1817. In the 1820s, to go from Eden over Bald Rock Mountain to worship at Big Springs (Springville) would have been difficult and dangerous.
New Hope is a grand name for a church in a new land, for it expresses the hope of God’s blessings in the years to come. The organizational date of 1824 comes from the 1853 Coosa River Baptist Association which met at Spring Creek Baptist Church in Shelby County. That year for the first time, the association asked for member churches to record the year their church was established, and New Hope’s date was listed 1824.
Laney-Barber-Gossett Store in Eden
Hosea Holcomb, in his 1840 History of the Rise and Progress of Baptists in Alabama, gives some early history of the church: “New Hope in St. Clair County was formerly in Mount Zion Association, but united with the Coosa River (Association) in 1834. They have always, until recently, been a small band. Their number has increased considerably … Elder William McCain labors with them in word and in doctrine.”
Rev. William McCain was the first recorded pastor of New Hope, and we know much about him from his obituary written by Samuel Henderson and published in the March 11, 1883, issue of The Alabama Baptist.
Here are highlights: “Among all the ministers who have lived in the bounds of the old Coosa River Association … none have surpassed William McCain in effectiveness of ministerial labors. With scarcely education enough to read English correctly, he achieved a position in his calling that opened every pulpit in the region. … Learned and unlearned, lawyers, doctors, and merchants, mechanics and farmers, rich and poor, all flocked to hear him. …Although he never pronounced a grammatical sentence in his life, knowing it to be such, yet behind his broken English and awkward phrases, there was an unction and power that lifted his hearers above all his imperfections of style and delivery. …His thoughts would glow with a brilliancy and come with a power … entrancing and overpowering. He would sway vast congregations like fields of waving grain in a brisk wind … The salvation of souls was his passion of his life, and to this he consecrated his whole life.”
Houses of worship
For church building locations, oral history provides clues.
In his History of the New Hope Baptist Church, 1824-1972, Curtis Rush quoted information about the first building provided by Pauline Baker from an April 14, 1964, letter written by Rev. B.W. Inzer. “The oldest thing I ever heard about a church at Eden, Uncle Fealy Stewart told me about 1935. He said, ‘I used to walk down here when I was 7 years old and older with my Grandma Mullins. She told me about the only church anywhere in this area was about where Jim Stevens built. It was (of) logs, and split logs and boards made the seats, windows and doors.” The exact location of this building remains uncertain.
In the same letter, B.W. Inzer wrote about the second building, relating what Andrew Ginn told him about it. “He (Ginn) said when he was a small boy, he attended the First Baptist Church, which was later called New Hope, as we know it. It was at the foot of the mountain in front of the Jim Kilgroe place.
He said he would never forget seeing all the men stand their shotguns up in the corners of the church. They brought them for two reasons: There had been rowdy fellows molesting the services, and that must stop. Then after the services on Saturday, they would go out and kill deer which they would barbecue, and all had a feast.”
For Rush’s history, New Hope’s oldest member at that time, C.S. Alverson, wrote down his recollections of the third building. “I remember attending New Hope Baptist Church when I was just a boy (1880s). The building was on the site where the pastorium is now. (Today, the church gym is in that location.) There was one road called ‘Mud Street’ now Wolf Creek Road and the church building faced this road … The windows had no glass panes but only wooden board shutters and board doors. The floor was dirt.”
The fourth church building was constructed in 1888 and had two front doors and a back door. It was well-built, for a tornado in April 1929 twisted and damaged the church, but it was so sturdy that it did not collapse and, as recorded by Rush, “Miraculously, the building was straightened up and put back in good repair.” This was completed by the men of the church under the guidance of “Mr. Coach, a carpenter from Pell City.”
In 1937, the church gave the 1888 structure “a complete face-lifting.” They added a balcony with two Sunday school rooms, and on the first floor, a vestibule and two more Sunday school rooms. This fine old building served New Hope until the church erected a new brick sanctuary in 1949.
Memories of the 1888 building are found in the Oct. 17, 1996, St. Clair News-Aegis article by Ann Boone. Olivia Vick, then 85 years old, told Boone how she had attended New Hope for 81 years. “We went to church in the morning and had Sunday school in the afternoon … There were two front doors, one for the men and one for the women, and no one ever went through the other’s door.”
Recalling the 1929 tornado, Mrs. Vick said, “My mother always took flowers every Sunday, and when we looked in the church (after the tornado), we saw that her flowers and the vase they were in on the Communion Table were still there and unharmed.”
Mrs. Vick’s favorite New Hope memory was her salvation. “Newt Butterworth explained the plan of salvation to me … This was when I was 16, and we went down to Barber’s Creek (for my baptizing). I wore a light blue dress. It was August, so the water wasn’t cold. Afterwards we went up and had church.”
Eden Depot
Newton “Newt” Butterworth’s death remains an intriguing part of New Hope’s history, as recorded in his obituary published July 25, 1935, in The Pell City News. “N. A. Butterworth Dies while Testifying. Mr. N. A. Butterworth died suddenly in the New Hope Baptist Church at Eden yesterday (Wednesday) while testifying in a revival service. Mr. Butterworth was 77 years old and was one of the oldest members of that church of which he was also a deacon. His last words were “I never felt happier in my life than I do this morning” and fell to the floor. … Burial will be at Mt. Carmel Cemetery.”
Included in the New Hope Baptist file at the Ashville Museum and Archives is a photocopied article titled, Pioneer Passes while Talking for the Lord, by Eloise Bowman. It noted that Butterworth prayed many times, “…‘Lord, let me die in the harness.’ (i.e. active until the moment of death) … (T)he Lord answered his prayer … when with his Bible under his arm, God called him home. He fell dead in the church.”
For a man to die in front of a congregation during a service would be a frightening object lesson that life is uncertain, and death is sure.
Revival week
Weeklong revivals were standard events in Baptist churches until about the 1970s or ’80s, when weekend and four-day revivals came into vogue. These yearly revivals usually resulted in conversions, baptisms and additions to church membership rolls.
In Rush’s history, he records that in 1864 during the Civil War, there were 41 baptisms and in 1866, a year after the war ended, there were 49 baptisms. These numbers are above average, for national conflicts and tragedies often draw people toward God and the church.
Churches ran revival announcements in local papers such as the one for New Hope in the April 7, 1955, St. Clair News-Aegis, “The revival at the New Hope Baptist Church will begin April 10th and continue through April 17th. Rev. Douglas Dexter will bring inspiring messages.” The announcement lists the titles of nine sermons, including the concluding one, Alibies, Lullabyes [sic], and Bye-byes.
Often in the 1950s and ‘60s, a traveling evangelist would hold a citywide tent revival with local churches promoting the event. Curtis Rush’s daughter, Margaret Rush, recalls one conducted by Evangelist C.J. Daniels from Orlando, Florida.
A May 16, 1965, Anniston Star article, Crusade Is Slated, reported about Daniels’ tent: “A unique poleless canvass cathedral with a seating capacity of 2,000 and auxiliary seating for another 2,000 has been erected on a lot just north of downtown Pell City on Highway 231 across from the dairy Queen … Dr. Daniels will be preaching with music directed by Dr. Lowell Leistner with John Roe at the organ.”
Margaret Rush recently recalled that Daniel’s promotional man, who came ahead to get things organized drove “…a Karmann Ghia car, and I had never seen one before. I thought it was very special.”
Daniels didn’t leave attendance to chance but promoted his revival wherever he went. Margaret remembered, “He had a plane – just a small plane – and he would take people up and show them the county from the plane. I went up with him… That was the first time that I’d flown in a plane.”
Daniels’ revivals were attended by throngs of worshipers as well as sight-seekers.
Homecoming and All-Day Singing.
Two other annual events were also observed on the same Sunday at New Hope in days gone by – the All-day Singing and Homecoming. No record exists stating when this second Sunday June event began. The June 7, 1945, announcement in The Pell City News reported, “Even the oldest of the old-timers are unable to say when the Eden Annual Homecoming started – 50 or 75 years ago, perhaps longer, most of them guess. No one seems to know, and no one cares much as long as the ‘Second Sunday’ celebration continues.”
In 1920, The Birmingham News reported the event in their June 14 edition. “Many citizens of Birmingham, Bessemer, Anniston, and other points who were formerly residents of St. Clair County attended the annual singing and homecoming at the Baptist church at Eden Sunday. Fully 2,000 persons were on hand. James Garrett, Circuit Court Clerk of St. Clair County, presided. Austen Hazelwood of Eden, one of Alabama’s sacred songwriters and singers, assisted in directing the music.
“Mrs. Lloyd Garrett, James Ragland of Pell City and Marvin Truitt of Anniston were among the leaders in the music. Rev. R.F. Funderberg of Cropwell, pastor of the church, was in charge of the devotional services. The affair this year proved one of the most enthusiastic ever held at Eden.”
The 1954 New Hope singing-homecoming announcement in the June 10 issue of St. Clair Times, reported that on Sunday, June 13, “…The Bama Boys will be guest singers. Also, local groups will be featured … Lunch will be served at noon. All attending are urged to bring a well-filled basket (of food).
In the May 25, 1951, issue of the Southern Aegis, Editor Edmund Blair reminisced about Homecoming at New Hope. “They come from far and near and from various states for this event.” He noted that folk would come in automobiles, but in the past “…mules and horses hitched to wagons, buggies, and in some cases, shiny black surreys were the chief method of transportation.”
These events were church and community reunions and were anticipated with excitement because attendees would see friends they had not visited with since last year’s homecoming and singing.
The folk found spiritual food in the church building and baskets of food at lunch with “dinner on the grounds” of the church. So, newspaper announcements encouraged women to bring “well-filled baskets of food.”
A June 7, 1945, announcement in The Pell City News mentioned the gas and food rationing of World War II. “Because of the transportation limitations, the crowd won’t likely be as big as in pre-war years, but every friend of Eden will make every effort to be present, and many have no doubt been saving their gas rations for this special day. Likewise, because of food rationing, many items that have in the past graced the bords at the dinner hour won’t be served, but there will be plenty to eat.”
Progressing through the years.
Population growth in the Eden-Pell City area necessitated additional construction. A new worship center was completed in 1997, and a Family Life Center and Gym in 2007. The 1949 structure serves as the Youth Room and the Senior Adult Sunday school room. As New Hope enters the beginning of its third century, plans have been laid for further expansion of the church campus.
200th Celebration
On Sunday, October 20, 2024, New Hope celebrated its 200th birthday. As the 10 o’clock hour approached, a sense of excitement permeated the sanctuary. Church members greeted one another and made sure non-member attendees felt welcomed as well. No one was excluded.
Proclamations from Pell City mayor and council were read, and a video proclamation by Dr. Lance from the Alabama Baptist Convention were presented prior to the beginning of the worship service.
After Scripture reading of Psalm 100, the Celebration Choir sang the Call to Worship hymn, Great is Thy Faithfulness, directed by Joseph Smith with Hanna Stough at the piano. Especially effective was Dr. Michael Averett’s trumpet obbligato, which underscored the hymn’s proclamation of God’s faithfulness. The concluding crescendo of choir, piano and trumpet brought approving applause and exclamations of praise.
After Greg Davis, chairman of the Bicentennial Committee, welcomed the congregation, Joseph Smith led the packed house in singing How Great Thou Art and To God Be the Glory. The singing of those well-loved hymns “raised the roof,” as old-timers would describe it. The male quartet with Greg “Skeet” Davis, Joseph Smith, Matthew Pope and Brandon Haynes harmonized the old hymn Brethren, We Have Met to Worship. Their rendition resulted in applause and vocal affirmation throughout the sanctuary.
After the congregation sang three praise and worship songs, St. Clair County Baptist Association Missionary Dr. Danny Courson gave greetings from the association member churches before reading from Joshua 4:4-9, the Scripture for transitional pastor Dr. Bob Weber’s sermon, Memories, Markers, Mission.
The Joshua passage recounts the Israelites crossing the Jordan River on dry land as they enter the Promised Land, and God instructing them to gather stones and build a memorial of that event. Dr. Weber spoke of the importance of memories and memorials in the lives of Christians, and that they should honor God’s blessings in their lives, the most important one being when they came to a saving knowledge of Christ. These blessings from God should be recounted to children and grandchildren and memorialized by parents and grandparents.
At this point in the service, 12 families brought stones to make a symbolic memorial to what God has accomplished through New Hope Baptist. Taylor Funderburg and children, Everett, Hadley and Findley, representing a first-generation family, laid the first stone. Husband Tyler missed because of his work. The Pope family of four generations laid the 12th stone. They are, from oldest to youngest, Gilbert Stuart, John Pope, Matthew Pope, and Glover Pope. This element of the bicentennial worship was modeled after the memorial stones recorded in Joshua 4:20-24. This memorial will be placed on the church campus in days to come.
The service continued with Dr. Weber admonishing the congregation that the church doesn’t rest on memories and memorials, for the membership is involved in New Hope’s stated mission – “To Worship Christ, Serve Others, Share the Gospel, and Disciple Believers.”
The service closed with the singing of Victory in Jesus, joyfully accompanied by piano and trumpet. Afterward, Johnny Gregg prayed the benediction and thanks before “dinner on the grounds” served in the FLC.
The history of a church is a history of God’s providence over a people whom He brings together to accomplish His purpose in a community.
As members die or move their membership for various reasons, God brings others to take their places, and the church continues to progress.
For a church to continue for 200 years is evidence of God’s blessings on those who organized New Hope in 1824. And although To God Be the Glory was not composed until 1872, every generation before and after would affirm its words:
Praise the Lord, Praise the Lord
Let the earth hear His voice,
Praise the Lord, praise the Lord,
Let the people rejoice
Oh, come to the Father through Jesus the Son,
And give Him the glory, great things He has done.
And by God’s gracious providence, the church will sing that hymn 100 years from now when they celebrate their tricentennial.
To God be the glory, for indeed great things He has done at Eden New Hope Baptist Church.
